The nuts secure the back of the tray and the bolts secure the sides, the front is lipped into the bottom of the slam panel.
The tray covers the entire underside of the engine bay and is held in place with 2 nuts and 4 bolts (all 10mm). The first thing to do is remove the engine under tray, all models came with one so if your car no longer has it then its either been robbed or discarded by a lazy mechanic (aim to replace it as it not only aids aerodynamics and noise but protects the engine from road spray). The engine should be warm - Warm oil flows much better then cold oil so will run out quicker and take more deposits with it so take the car for a drive up to temperature first. The job is best tackled with the vehicle up on a set of ramps, however its possible to do it on a flat piece of ground without raising the vehicle.Īs with all lubricant changes, ensure the filler cap can be removed - the last thing you want to do it drain a lubricant only to find you can't refill it! Whilst unlikely for the oil cap its still better to check first. of "505.01", premature camshaft lobe wear will result if the oil isn't up to this spec!! The TDI uses 4.5 Litres of oil when its changed along with the oil filter. *-Please note that although the basic procedure is the same, the 130/150ps (engine codes ASZ/BTB respectively) TDI's use a different oil filter to the 90/115ps TDI's and have a different style of filter cap, please see the additional notes and images relating to this at the bottom of the article.Ī note on Diesel oil first: The PD (Mk2 TDI) engine uses 5W/40 grade oil which MUST meet the minimum Spec. The principle is the same for the 2.3 and V6 however the oil and filter's are different.
This guide covers how to do a basic oil and filter change on the TDI (90/115ps versions- engine codes ANU/AUY respectively)*.
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